Sunday, September 30, 2007

Rio San Juan


So, my buddy Graham and I are going to Nicaragua. Originally, we had planned on doing a standard surf travel across Costa Rica and possibly Nicaragua. The other day, though, he stopped through and maps came out. So did some whisky. Pretty soon we were talking about doing this trip down San Juan River in Nicaragua. Now we're committed. The plan, as it stands, is to gear up in La Fortuna, Costa Rica. We'll put in on the Rio Frio in Costa Rica, then paddle to the famed Lake Nicaragua. A short paddle across Lake Nicaragua will bring us to the Nicaraguan town of San Carlos. Our passports stamped, and after a stop at the local market, we'll shove off in our canoe for what I hope to be an epic journey.

The San Juan flows east for 200 km before reaching the Caribbean. Inside its banks is some of the best tarpon and snook fishing to be had, anywhere, and in freshwater. We'll be fly-fishing for 40 lb snook and perhaps 100lb tarpon (that's a small one!) . I've been tying flies like a fiend. We'll be ready for them. I just hope that the fish decide to run downstream. It's the jungle there, too. I just got the maps and there is next to nothing on the river. A couple of indian villages, some ranches on the Costa Rican side, but not much. Then, about 20 km from the delta, we'll divert to the Rio Colorado which crosses into Costa Rica. Then we'll paddle through Tortuguero National Park or on the Caribbean and get picked up.

I just endured a hour-long friekout circus festival with my parents. They are convinced that we are going to die. My father is sending me articles about bull sharks. Yes, they are in the river, as well as Lake Nicaragua, but no one has been eaten in 30 years. My mother is worried about the plethora of brown recluses and tarantulas. She doesn't even want to hear about the caimans and bushmaster snakes (see photo) that my father is currently hyperventilating over. I told him I'd bring a radio and some percaset. But, I am beginning to think a bit about what they have to say. Perhaps I'll make my camp as snake-proof as possible and avoid swimming in the river at night. At least it is 2007 and not 1987 and we don't have to worry about the Sandanistas. At least as far as we know.
So that's the plan. 300 km in 10 days. 2 friends, 1 canoe, 2 fly rods, 2 machetes, and all the adventure we can handle.

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