We woke up this morning with the sun and had some coffee and pan (bread) with Joel. It rained so hard last night that the river rose about 5 feet. It was a good thing that we were on high ground. As we were about to leave they started preparing equipment to harpoon tarpon. This is illegal on the river, but they didn't seem to mind- especially since an average tarpon weighs 100 lbs. The harpoon heads looked very cool-all made by hand by Joel. Joel and Eduardo went out in one dugout and Eddie and myself paddled our canoe. Graham was crapping and caught up in a dugout later. He looked very comfortable paddling such an ancient vessel. He looked like he belonged paddling in it.
I am amazed at the dexterity with which these people paddle their canoes. Even Eddie, at 12 years old, paddles as well, or better than I do. All my Keewaydin friends will all love to hear that the Keewaydin hunch is alive and well on the Rio San Juan. And not because I have introduced it. Paddled along the shore in pensive silence, looking for a tarpon to rise. Joel was standing poised in the dugout, ready to strike at the first fish that he saw. But none came. We returned to the house and Graham and I loaded the boat and left. I gave the boys my deck of cards as a gift since they enjoyed playing cards so much. We didn't leave any money and are now wondering if we should have or, it we did, perhaps it would have created a weird dynamic. Who knows. Maybe we'll send some money with a photo when we get back. I asked Joel to write his address for me so I can send them a letter, and then it dawned on me that he couldn't read or write. I think I embarrassed him since his kids had to tell me how to spell their last name. Oops.
When we left, the sun was very strong. Graham was decked out in what we have come to call his "gay hat". Because of his antibiotics, he is extremely sensitive to the sun. We paddled through a part of the river that was perhaps the most picturesque yet. The river curves a lot and there is profound topography abutting the shore. Sloths, tucans, and many other birds abound. We stopped in Boca San Carlos for breakfast and found out that we can't stamp out of Nicaragua until "Delta", where the Rio San Juan splits. Only then can we hope that we will get an entry into Costa Rica in Limon.
When we left, the sun was very strong. Graham was decked out in what we have come to call his "gay hat". Because of his antibiotics, he is extremely sensitive to the sun. We paddled through a part of the river that was perhaps the most picturesque yet. The river curves a lot and there is profound topography abutting the shore. Sloths, tucans, and many other birds abound. We stopped in Boca San Carlos for breakfast and found out that we can't stamp out of Nicaragua until "Delta", where the Rio San Juan splits. Only then can we hope that we will get an entry into Costa Rica in Limon.
We continued downriver swiftly due to the rain last night and passed Abner selling some goods on the Costa Rican shore. We stopped for a while, shot the breeze, and continued on our way. 3:00 found us in Sarapiqui; where we checked in once again with the Nicaraguan Army. We camped across the river, on the Tico side, in the yard of a small business. I took a great shower and washed some nasty clothes. The owner let us cook our food in her kitchen. As we ate, Abner showed up for dinner. I guess he is staying here for the night too.
I love the culture of this river- everyone knows everyone and these people are incredibly nice. It's weird seeing development on the Tico side and then looking across the river to the Nica side, which is pure jungle. Asi es. Tired at 7:00 and finding sleep a relatively easy goal.
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